The prepared stump remains in this state until next summer. During this time, the entire root system is saturated with saltpeter and dries up. A fire is built around the stump, which must be maintained until the skeleton is completely destroyed. If the top cut of the stump is flush with the ground, additional recesses can be drilled in it for pouring gasoline or kerosene. The combustible mixture is ignited, initiating the process of combustion and smoldering of hemp throughout the volume. After complete burnout, the place where the stump was located is dug up and covered with earth.
For one stump left from a medium-sized fruit tree (up to 15 cm in diameter), about 2 kg of saltpeter is consumed. Its quantity affects mainly not the completeness, but the rate of wood burning out. To achieve maximum destruction of the stump, including the roots, you should wait until the tree is completely dry after winter and spring rains.
For reference, in order to fit 1 kg of saltpeter into a stump, you need to make twenty holes with a diameter of 1 cm, five holes with a diameter of 2 cm or two holes with a diameter of 3 cm (depth - 30 cm). The thicker the drill, the faster the work will go.
The preparation of the stump with this method is completely identical to the use of saltpeter - the stump is perforated with drills of maximum diameter, and urea (urea) is poured into the holes formed. The top of the holes is filled with water, after which the stump is tightly wrapped with a polymer film. After 1-2 years, the woody remains completely rot, and in their place is a fertile layer of soil.
Do not confuse urea and ammonium nitrate. These are completely different compounds - urea is relatively harmless, while ammonium nitrate is a rather explosive and toxic substance.
For reference - to place 1 kg of urea in a stump, you will have to make about thirty holes with a diameter of 1 cm, eight holes with a diameter of 2 cm or four holes with a diameter of 3 cm (30 cm deep). The consumption of urea for removing a medium-sized stump is selected in the same way as when laying saltpeter.
When using any fertilizer, it is recommended to use protective equipment. Old clothes and gloves for hands are quite suitable for working with saltpeter. When working with urea, you can not use such precautions, but you should not scatter the chemical around the area and take it with your bare hands either.
You can quickly remove the stump when using a tractor, excavator or puller (hand cutter). Attracting large-sized equipment can be inconvenient or even impossible due to the presence of a fence, plants and equipped paths on the site. Buying a manual rooter or hiring a specialist with his own tool is a very costly undertaking to remove one stump. To save money and effort, you need to involve one or two assistants and adhere to the general rules of work.
Extraction of the skeleton using a winch: to get the stump out of the ground, you can tie it around the trunk and roots with a metal cable stretched through the winch. The cable should extend to the winch from the saw cut, thus providing a lever for overturning the stump. The winch is mounted on a firmly fixed pole or other tree.
Mechanical removal: if it is not possible to use a winch, the tree frame can be removed by cutting or sawing off its roots. The specific method depends on the degree of openness of the roots and the availability of access to them with an ax or saw. If it is not possible to expose the root, it can be cut right in the ground using a pick - scrap metal or a thin pipe with an ax welded at one end. A similar tool is often used by janitors, breaking off icing from the asphalt.
After cutting off the side branches, a central post is usually left, which is difficult to approach. It is already turning from side to side and partially rotates around its axis. You can break it with a deep vertical root by active turns and tilts in different directions.
Trim the lower leaves with secateurs if you want to remove the "skirt". The bottom leaves of a yucca are called the "skirt". Start at the bottom and trim the leaves with a knife, razor blade, garden shears, or pruner. Make the cut as close as possible to the trunk of the yucca. Stop removing leaves around the middle of the tree or when you are satisfied with its appearance.
Leaves can be cut at any time of the year. Note that yucca is best pruned in the spring, so you can wait and prune the plant later.
Like palm trees, the lower leaves of the yucca form a kind of "skirt".
Pruning damaged leaves is good for the plant, especially if it has withered. Pruning such leaves contributes to the healing of the plant.
Cut off the flower stem 10 cm from the base. Do this after the yucca has bloomed. When the yucca blooms, white flowers begin to grow on its top. Grasp the flower stem, remove the leaves so they don't get in your way, and cut the flower with a pruner, sharp knife, or garden shears.
The plant can be pruned before it blooms, although yucca pruning is usually done after flowering. Prune the plant as soon as the yucca blooms, or wait for the flowers to wilt.
When you're done, collect and dispose of any cut pieces. Discard the leaves or use them as compost. Enjoy your new kind of plant!
You can free the trees from yellowed needles several times a season, but the main sanitary cleaning is done in the spring. For work, you will need gloves and a hand pruner. First, carefully pushing the branches apart, remove with your hands everything that crumbles freely. Then, using a pruner, remove the dried and broken branches.It is not necessary to remove every scale from the tree. At the end, you can use a blower to blow through the crown and shake off stuck needles.